SALT CAY

 "ISALND HISTORY"

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Sun-baked Salt Cay, 9 miles (15km) south of Grand Turk, a speck of land steeped in character. It's a museum of 19th-century industry, with its windmills relics, salt sheds and salinas. The modern history of the country begins in the mid-1600s, when Bermudian salt traders settled. They created ponds linked to the sea by canals and sluice gates, with windmills controlling water flow. At one time, the cay was the world's largest producer of salt. In its heyday, over 100 vessels a year left the island for the US with their cargo of `white gold'. Today things are less hectic and the island is asphalt free- though it has barely half a dozen cars. Donkeys, wild cattle and iguanas far outnumber the 125 human inhabitants.

Historic Balfour Town boasts several old two-story homes with wide verandas and jalousied windows. The most noteworthy attraction in town is the splendidly preserved White House, a stately salt-merchant's manor built in 1835 with ballast stone. Next door is the old wooden Treasury Building, where salt-workers once collected their pay; and, nearby, St John's Anglican Church and the District Commissioner's Office, housing the old jail. If this sounds too modest, the local beaches are superb.

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